If you’d told me a few years ago that Cambodia would become one of my favorite destinations, I might have raised an eyebrow. Yet, here I was, sipping on a glass of iced pandan coffee in Phnom Penh’s trendy café, marveling at the country’s ability to rise, rebuild, and offer experiences that blend history, luxury, and heart.
Landing in Phnom Penh, the first thing that struck me was how modern the city felt. Wide boulevards lined with trendy eateries, glitzy skyscrapers reflecting the Mekong River, and a vibrant energy that whispered resilience. For a country with such a dark past—the Khmer Rouge genocide is still a chilling chapter—Cambodia has emerged as a beacon of hope and transformation.
Phnom Penh: A Luxury Base
My home for this part of the journey was the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, a 95 year old storied iconic hotel that has hosted everyone from Jacqueline Kennedy to Charlie Chaplin. Walking into its elegant lobby, I immediately felt cocooned in timeless luxury. The colonial architecture, shimmering chandeliers, and soft hum of jazz from the Elephant Bar were as inviting as the cold glass of a local drink handed to me at check-in.
Mornings at Raffles were pure magic. My ritual began with a glass of iced Mondulkiri coffee—a rich, aromatic brew sourced from the highlands of Cambodia with condensed milk. Its deep, earthy flavor and slight sweetness made it the perfect pick-me-up for the warm tropical mornings. Enjoying it in the tranquil courtyard, surrounded by fragrant frangipani trees, was a refreshing way to ease into the day.
Exploring Phnom Penh revealed a city of contrasts. The gleaming Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda stand as testaments to Cambodia’s royal heritage, while the sobering Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum tells of a nation’s darkest days. Food was another delightful surprise. From tangy green mango salads to flavorful tofu amok, Phnom Penh’s vegetarian options were stellar, blending bold flavors with a fresh, tropical touch. Apart from local cuisine, there are many Vietnamese, Thai and Lebanesr restaurants too.
Siem Reap: Timeless Temples and Hidden Gems
When I think of Siem Reap, two words immediately come to mind: Angkor Wat Nothing, and I mean nothing, can prepare you for the sheer grandeur of witnessing sunrise over this UNESCO World Heritage Site. As the first rays of light crept over the intricately carved stone towers, it felt like I was standing at the edge of eternity. Every detail of Angkor Wat speaks to the grandeur of the Khmer Empire—from the massive bas-reliefs depicting ancient battles and celestial dancers to the intricate carvings that have stood the test of time. You’ll also find Ramayan and Mahabharat carvings there.
Angkor Wat is only the beginning. The Angkor Archaeological Park is dotted with hundreds of temples, each with its own personality. Ta Prohm, famously enveloped by giant tree roots, feels like a scene from a fantasy novel, while Bayon mesmerizes with its serene, smiling stone faces. For a quieter experience, I ventured to Banteay Srei, a smaller temple renowned for its intricate pink sandstone carvings.
But Siem Reap isn’t just about temples. Beyond the archaeological marvels lies a vibrant countryside waiting to be explored. Cycling through the rice paddies, I found serenity in the emerald-green fields dotted with grazing water buffalo and stilted wooden houses. You also shouldn’t miss the amazing dining options by the riverside from Malis, Chanrey Tree offering local khmer dishes to the vibrant pub street.
Raffles Grand Hotel
Back in Siem Reap, my sanctuary was the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, an elegant retreat steeped in history. Like its sister property in Phnom Penh, this Raffles property is a haven of sophistication built 92 years ago. Afternoons here were spent indulging in their High Tea, a decadent affair of tiered trays filled with pandan cakes, buttery scones, and perfectly crafted savory bites. With sweeping garden views and the hum of colonial elegance, it was a moment of pure bliss.
Evenings at Raffles were reserved for unwinding with the Siem Reap Sling, a fruity and floral twist on the classic Singapore Sling. After days of temple-hopping and countryside adventures, there was no better way to recharge than with a cocktail by the pool. Did I mention they arranged a private guided tour of the temples for us ?
Hidden Gems Across Cambodia
Cambodia is full of surprises, many of them tucked away from the usual tourist trails. In Battambang, a sleepy town with colonial charm, I discovered Cambodia’s artistic soul. From vibrant street art to contemporary art galleries, this riverside town pulses with creativity. A ride on the famous bamboo train, an improvised rail-cart system, offered a quirky yet thrilling way to experience the countryside.
Farther afield, the lush highlands of Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri captivated me with their natural beauty. Mondulkiri’s rolling hills, cool climate, and cascading waterfalls were a stark contrast to Cambodia’s flat plains. In Ratanakiri, the crater lake of Yeak Laom, with its crystal-clear waters surrounded by dense jungle, was a serene escape.
For beach lovers, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem are tropical paradises with powdery white sand and turquoise waters. These islands are perfect for unwinding after exploring Cambodia’s historical and cultural treasures.
Cambodia’s Resilient Spirit
What makes Cambodia truly special isn’t just its ability to dazzle with luxury—it’s the depth of its story. From Phnom Penh’s dynamic streets to Siem Reap’s ancient temples and the hidden gems scattered across the countryside, this is a country that invites you to slow down and savor its soul.
Despite its tumultuous history, Cambodia has not just survived; it has flourished. It offers a seamless blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication. For me, this journey was a reminder that the most beautiful places are often born from resilience.
So, pack light, bring an appetite for adventure, and get ready to fall in love. Cambodia will sweep you off your feet—and leave you yearning to return.